Bangkok or Hua Hin?

On beaches the gap is complete. Bangkok has no swimmable shore of its own, only hotel and rooftop pools, and its nearest real sand at Bang Saen or Pattaya makes a long day out.

Hua Hin is built around its beach: several kilometres of sand from the old fishing pier to Khao Takiab, with usually calm water, and pine-shaded Suan Son Pradipat or the empty stretches towards Pranburi for quieter days. The water is often milky rather than clear, but for swimming and lazing it is the real thing. It is also where many Bangkok visitors go to add beach time to their trip.

Bangkok is one of the great eating cities of the world, and its range sets it apart. You can eat boat noodles and som tam at plastic tables, graze through Chinatown's night kitchens or browse the produce halls of Or Tor Kor. It also has a deep layer of ambitious restaurants reworking regional Thai food, along with strong cocktail and coffee scenes.

Hua Hin eats well but within a narrower range. Its strengths are seafood chosen by weight in the stilted restaurants by the pier and grazing at the Dechanuchit Road night market. Beyond those, the cooking is provincial, and many menus are aimed at long-staying Europeans.

Bangkok's old centre holds some of the most spectacular buildings in Asia: the Grand Palace with the Emerald Buddha, the Reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, the porcelain-studded tiers of Wat Arun and many working temples. The National Museum and the Thonburi canals add depth.

Hua Hin's interest lies in its royal seaside past, seen in the railway station's royal pavilion and the teak palace of Maruekhathaiyawan, while the main palace is rarely open. With no museums of note, a day or two covers it.

Bangkok offers several quite different nights out: cocktail bars and clubs in Thonglor and Ekkamai, the cheap street-front party on Khao San Road, Silom's gay scene and rooftop bars above the river, with street food still on offer after closing.

Hua Hin's evenings come down to a few lanes of beer and hostess bars around Soi Bintabaht and a handful of sunset spots. Most visitors end the night at a market or back at their resort.

Hua Hin has far better access to wild country. The limestone peaks of Khao Sam Roi Yot and the Phraya Nakhon cave are an hour south, Kaeng Krachan's rainforest with its gibbons and hornbills lies inland, and the bay is good for kitesurfing in the breezy months.

In Bangkok, the outdoors means parks: Lumphini with its monitor lizards and the raised cycling paths of Bang Krachao. Khao Yai and Kanchanaburi are far enough away to need a night.

Bangkok has the stronger list. Ayutthaya, the ruined old capital, comes first, then the floating and railway markets around Amphawa and Maeklong, the great stupa at Nakhon Pathom and, if you can manage a long day, the Death Railway bridge at Kanchanaburi.

From Hua Hin, the best outing is Phetchaburi, about an hour away, with its hilltop palace, cave temple and fine murals. You can reach Damnoen Saduak and Amphawa from either base, but they sit closer to Bangkok and make a long day from the coast.

Both welcome children warmly, and both have the same midday heat and pavements that defeat pushchairs. The difference is the shape of the day. In Bangkok, families fill the hours with Sea Life Ocean World, Safari World, Dream World and the mall play areas before retreating to a hotel pool, and slow traffic makes crossing town tiring.

Hua Hin is easier, with a gentle sea, resorts that have kids' clubs and big pools on the sand, two water parks and pony rides on the beach. A whole day can pass without a long journey.

Bangkok has the Skytrain, the MRT and the Chao Phraya river boats, which make trips between Siam, Sukhumvit, Silom and the Grand Palace quick and cool. The old city and the gaps between stations still mean hot walks and slow taxis.

Hua Hin has nothing comparable. It is a long strip along the Phetkasem highway, walkable only in the old centre, with green songthaews running along the main road. For the national parks and Phetchaburi you need taxis, tuk-tuks or a car and driver.

Bangkok is a real shopping destination. The connected malls of Siam and Ratchaprasong range from luxury floors to cheap electronics, Pratunam sells clothing wholesale and Chatuchak has thousands of stalls, with Thai silk, celadon and benjarong to take home.

Hua Hin is a place for browsing. The evening craft markets in the south of town are the best of it, the night market sells mostly T-shirts and copies, and the malls cover everyday brands.

Both are easy on a budget, and in each your money goes a long way on street meals, massages and hotels with pools. The difference is where costs rise. In Bangkok, the expensive items are rooftop bars, international restaurants and entry to the Grand Palace, and a base on the river or in Sukhumvit costs more than one in Banglamphu.

In Hua Hin, the beachfront resorts charge international rates, and Thai weekend visitors push up room rates on Fridays, Saturdays and long weekends, so staying midweek saves money.

Bangkok has a modest but real programme: khon masked drama at the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre and the National Theatre, the symphony orchestra at the Thailand Cultural Centre, small jazz bars, and the ritual and music of Muay Thai at Rajadamnern and Lumpinee. Hua Hin has almost nothing formal beyond cover bands and dance shows for resort guests, despite the town's long association with jazz.

The two are close for wellness, but the experience differs. In Bangkok, massage is part of everyday city life, from the traditional school at Wat Pho to street parlours that stay open late and refined hotel spas. The noise and traffic mean you relax in short breaks.

In Hua Hin, rest is the whole point of the stay. Destination spa retreats offer detox, yoga and fitness programmes, massages happen under the trees on the beach, and the days settle into early swims and long lunches.