Deer Valley or Las Vegas?

Neither city has a coast, so swimming is a sideshow in both. In Deer Valley it means the sandy reservoir shore at Jordanelle on a warm July afternoon, while in Las Vegas it means Lake Mead's shadeless gravel beach or, far more often, a Strip resort pool with a wave machine and a lazy river.

Las Vegas offers much more choice. The Strip gathers famous chefs, French dining rooms and tasting menus alongside the buffets, and the kilometres of Sichuan, Korean, Thai and Vietnamese kitchens on Spring Mountain Road give it a cheaper, late-night side that Deer Valley simply lacks.

Deer Valley eats well within a narrower range: polished lodge food, the skiers' turkey chili, and a cluster of steakhouses, sushi and bistros on Park City's Main Street. Neither has a cuisine of its own, but Deer Valley's depth stops at the upscale tier.

Neither is a sightseeing destination, but Las Vegas offers somewhat more to look at. The themed resorts, the fountains and the Fremont Street light show make an evening's spectacle, and the Neon Museum and the Mob Museum tell a distinctive story of the casino era.

Deer Valley's heritage belongs to Park City: a restored silver-mining Main Street, old headframes on the slopes and a modest museum in the former city hall, plus Olympic history at the 2002 Games park. It is quieter and more authentic, but an afternoon covers it.

This is where the two are furthest apart. Las Vegas runs all night, with drinks carried along the Strip, superstar DJs in the resort clubs, dayclub pool parties and a looser bar scene downtown around Fremont Street and the arts district.

Deer Valley's evenings are fireside lounges and a short run of saloons and cocktail bars on Park City's Main Street, busy on ski-season weekends but small-town in scale and early to close. Most people here are saving their energy for first chair.

Deer Valley is one of the great mountain bases: its own immaculately groomed slopes, the vast Park City Mountain next door and the powder of Alta and Snowbird an hour away, then lift-served biking, aspen trails, fly-fishing and the Uintas in summer.

Las Vegas has its own impressive scenery in Red Rock Canyon's climbing cliffs, the flame-coloured rock of Valley of Fire and the forests of Mount Charleston. But it all requires a car, and the summer heat rules out desert hiking for four months, so it plays a supporting role rather than defining the trip.

Deer Valley has the slightly better spread of outings. Salt Lake City's Temple Square and museums are forty minutes away, and the Swiss-styled village of Midway, the Heber Valley steam railway, Sundance and Ogden's 25th Street add variety.

From Las Vegas there is Hoover Dam with Boulder City, and then long drives to the Grand Canyon, Zion or Death Valley. Those are memorable, but they are full days spent on landscape rather than on places.

Deer Valley is far the better choice for children, at least for families who ski. Ski schools, wide snowboard-free beginner runs and ski-to-the-door lodging make the days easy, and the Olympic Park's tubing, alpine coaster and ziplines fill the gaps. The main drawbacks are the cost and a day of adjusting to the altitude.

Las Vegas can keep children busy for a day or two with its indoor amusement park, the shark aquarium and the Discovery Children's Museum. Still, almost every route runs through a casino, and the late-night adult atmosphere is unavoidable.

Deer Valley is the simpler place to stay put. Fare-free buses link the base areas with Main Street and Park City Mountain, and slopeside lodging means the car can stay parked, though anything further afield calls for driving on snowy roads.

Las Vegas looks walkable on a map but isn't. The giant resorts, the footbridges and the casino detours stretch every walk, and summer heat makes them punishing. The monorail and buses help, but most visitors end up relying on taxis and ride-hailing.

Las Vegas is the shopping destination of the two. Its resort malls, from the Roman-themed arcade at Caesars Palace to the Venetian's canal-side shops, gather the big fashion and jewellery houses and stay open late, with outlet centres at either end of the Strip.

Deer Valley offers Main Street galleries, western boots and hats, upmarket boutiques and an outlet centre at Kimball Junction. Its real strength is mountain gear, which is something Las Vegas doesn't specialise in.

Las Vegas is clearly easier on the budget, if you plan for it. Midweek rooms can be cheap for what they offer, downtown is cheaper still, and eating in Chinatown keeps meals reasonable, although weekend rates, resort fees and Strip drinks quickly push costs up.

Deer Valley is expensive at almost every level: luxury lodging, top-tier lift access, ski school and on-mountain meals. Summer brings some relief, and staying in the Heber Valley or Salt Lake City cuts costs, but it never becomes a budget option.

Las Vegas is the place to plan an evening around a show. Dozens play every night in purpose-built theatres, from water-based acrobatics to magicians, and major pop and country stars take long residencies there, with the Smith Center adding touring musicals and ballet.

Deer Valley's highlight is seasonal: the Utah Symphony's summer festival on the grass at Snow Park, picnics included. Beyond that, the 1920s Egyptian Theatre on Main Street stages plays and small concerts, which is pleasant but rarely a reason to travel.

Deer Valley is the more relaxing stay overall. Quiet slopeside lodges, fireplaces, hot tubs in the snow and polished hotel spas set the pace, and the warm spring pool inside the Homestead Crater at Midway is an unusual soak half an hour away.

Las Vegas has some of the country's largest spas, with thermal circuits and salt and ice rooms, but the noise and round-the-clock stimulation of the casinos work against them. Rest there means planning: a non-gaming hotel and spa time booked for the morning.