Dolomites or Ischia?

Swimming separates these two more than anything else. In the Dolomites the famous high lakes are for looking at, and bathing means valley pools, the lawns at Lake Caldaro or a drive to Riva on Lake Garda.

Ischia has real beaches: the long volcanic sand at Maronti, sunset swims at Citara and calm, shallow water at San Montano, with a warm sea from June into October and rocky coves reached by water taxi.

The Dolomites eat better, mainly because of the overlap of Alpine and Italian cooking. Speck, canederli and strudel are followed by a proper espresso, and the region adds hut terraces at altitude, Lagrein and Gewürztraminer from the slopes below Bolzano, and a run of serious kitchens in Alta Badia.

Ischia's best meal is rabbit braised in terracotta or grilled fish at Sant'Angelo or Forio, with Biancolella from Epomeo's terraces. Half-board spa hotels dominate, though, and the good village trattorias take some hunting for.

Neither is a trip people take for the sights. The Dolomites have the deeper spread across the valley towns: Ötzi in Bolzano's archaeology museum, Trento's castle frescoes, Bressanone's cloister, Novacella Abbey and the war tunnels on the high passes.

Ischia's heritage fits into a couple of days. The Aragonese Castle on its causeway and Nestor's Cup from Greek Pithekoussai at Lacco Ameno are genuinely special, but beyond them it is lanes, churches and gardens.

Both go quiet early, so neither suits anyone wanting a big night out. The Dolomites' version is winter après-ski at the foot of the slopes in Val Gardena, Val di Fassa and Cortina, then dinner and bed. Ischia's is summer, with cocktail terraces around Ischia Porto, harbour drinks at Sant'Angelo and a couple of late discos in July and August.

This is the Dolomites' great advantage. The Tre Cime, Sella, Marmolada and Seceda rank among the finest mountain scenery in Europe, and lifts, via ferrate and long routes such as the Alta Via 1 open it up to walkers of every level, with skiing across a dozen linked valleys in winter.

Ischia is greener and steeper than people expect. Monte Epomeo's chestnut woods and summit views, the steaming ground on the south coast and snorkelling in the Regno di Nettuno reserve make good outings, but they fill a week rather than a season.

Both have a strong list of outings, but they differ in kind. From the Dolomites you travel by train or winding road: Merano, Trento and the wine route from Bolzano, Verona by rail, Innsbruck over the Brenner, and Venice at a stretch from the east.

From Ischia every trip is a boat. Procida is a short hop, and Naples, the Phlegraean Fields at Pozzuoli and, in summer, Capri and Sorrento are within reach, so it suits travellers who enjoy the crossing as part of the day.

The Dolomites suit children better in summer. Flat paths on the Alpe di Siusi and the Armentara meadows, huts with playgrounds and animals, toboggan runs and family hotels with kids' clubs fill the days, and ski schools take over in winter.

Ischia is fine for a slow beach and pool week, with gentle water at San Montano and the thermal parks, and children are made very welcome. Nothing is designed for them, though, and the stepped villages and crowded buses wear thin with older children.

The Dolomites are easier to move around once you are inside a valley, where trains, buses on one regional pass and linked lifts do the work. Crossing between valleys on hairpin passes is slow, and most people who want to roam hire a car.

Ischia is the reverse case. It is small but a car is a hindrance, so you rely on one looping bus road that is packed in summer, plus microtaxis and water taxis, and the island itself is reached only by ferry.

The Dolomites offer more to buy. Ortisei's carved wood, Bolzano's arcades with loden and food shops, Cortina's short luxury strip and some of the Alps' best Advent markets all give a reason to browse.

Ischia's shopping is one evening walk from Ischia Porto to Ischia Ponte, with linen, sandals and ceramics, plus limoncello and thermal cosmetics to take home.

Ischia is easier on the wallet. Its family-run spa hotels price it as an ordinary Italian resort, and buses and ferries stay fair, although July and August push costs up.

In the Dolomites, Cortina, Alta Badia and Val Gardena are among Italy's dearest resorts, and lift passes and guided climbs add up. Staying in Fassa, Fiemme or Bolzano, or going in June or September, softens it.

Both are thin, but the Dolomites have a little more year round, with orchestral seasons and theatres in Bolzano and Trento. Summer brings concerts on alpine meadows and jazz in castles and wineries, and Merano has its autumn festival.

Ischia's offer is summer-only: chamber music in the Mortella gardens and concerts at the Aragonese Castle. For opera you take the ferry to Naples.

Ischia is a spa island first and foremost. Its hot springs feed hotel pools and terraced thermal parks above the sea, and the wild bathing at Sorgeto and in the Cavascura steam caves has no equivalent in the Alps.

The Dolomites do relaxation through the hotel. South Tyrol has saunas facing rock walls, heated pools in the snow and hay baths near Völs, while Merano's thermal baths are the only real public option.