Copper Mountain

There are no beaches here, and nobody comes to swim. Copper Mountain sits high in the Colorado Rockies, more than a day's drive from any coast. The lakes and reservoirs in Summit County are snowmelt-fed and cold even in July, and the largest is used for boating rather than bathing. In summer, swimming means a heated lodge pool or a hot tub.

Eating at Copper Mountain is resort eating. Mid-mountain lodges serve burgers, chilli and big plates for skiers, the village has a handful of pizza, Mexican and pub-style places, and the condos let many visitors cook for themselves. It is perfectly adequate after a day outdoors, but there is no local food culture to discover. Visitors who want more variety drive to the restaurant streets of nearby Frisco or Breckenridge for an evening.

Copper Mountain has essentially no sights. It is a ski resort village of condos and lodges laid out around the base of the lifts, without museums, historic buildings or landmarks. The region's mining-era heritage, with its Victorian main streets and old mine works, belongs to the neighbouring towns rather than to Copper itself.

Going out here means après-ski. On winter afternoons the bars at the base of the lifts fill with skiers in boots, and on busy weekends there is music and a bit of noise on the village plaza. By late evening most people are back in their condos, tired from the altitude and the slopes. There are no clubs, and outside the ski season the village goes very quiet. Breckenridge, about half an hour away, has a livelier main street for those who want a later night.

This is the whole reason to come. Copper Mountain is a large ski area at the foot of the Tenmile Range, with terrain that separates neatly by ability and treeless bowls above 3,600m. Several other major Summit County ski areas, plus Vail, are within a short drive, so a week can take in many different mountains. Snow usually lasts from November into spring.

In summer the same slopes become hiking and mountain-biking country. The Colorado Trail crosses the resort, a paved recreation path runs over Vail Pass and down to Frisco, and fourteen-thousand-foot peaks such as Mount Elbert are within an hour. The altitude is serious, with the village at about 2,960m, and afternoon thunderstorms are routine in July and August.

Several worthwhile places are an easy drive away. Breckenridge, about half an hour off, keeps a long Victorian mining-town main street, and Leadville, a similar distance south, is a high, weathered silver-boom town with a strong historic district. Over Vail Pass, Vail's Alpine-style village makes a pleasant afternoon, and Frisco is a small lakeside town with a relaxed main street.

Toward Denver, Georgetown and Silver Plume preserve another mining-era town and a historic narrow-gauge railway, while Denver itself, about an hour and a half away when the interstate is clear, offers museums and a proper city. Weekend ski traffic on I-70 can stretch that journey considerably.

Copper Mountain is set up for families in a practical way. The village is car-free around its core, slopes separate easily by ability, and children's ski school is a main part of the resort. Off the slopes there are snow tubing, a mountain coaster and an indoor action-sports centre with trampolines and foam pits, and in summer there are smaller activities around the base area and a lake.

The main caveat is altitude. At nearly 3,000m, headaches, poor sleep and dehydration are common for the first couple of days, and very young children need careful watching. Beyond the resort's own activities there is little made for children, and evenings are quiet.

Within the resort, getting around is easy. Its villages are linked by walkways, lifts and a free shuttle, and staying near a lift means a car can sit untouched for days. Free county buses run to Frisco and connect on to Breckenridge and Keystone.

Beyond that, the Rockies are car country. There is no train, the airport at Denver is about two hours away by road, and arriving means a car or an airport shuttle. Winter driving on I-70 can be slow and difficult, with snow on the passes and heavy weekend traffic.

Shopping here amounts to ski and snowboard rental, outdoor gear, sunglasses and resort-branded clothing in the village. Nobody comes for it. For a wider choice, visitors drive to the outlet mall at Silverthorne or browse the galleries and boutiques along Breckenridge's main street.

This is an expensive place to stay, especially in winter. Lift access, slope-side lodging, equipment rental and resort meals all cost a lot, as at any big Colorado ski area. Copper Mountain is somewhat easier on the budget than the grandest neighbouring resorts. Condos with kitchens help a lot, and lodging in Frisco or Silverthorne can cost less than staying slope-side. Summer and the shoulder seasons are noticeably gentler.

There is little to attend. Bands play on the village plaza during summer concert weekends, and live acoustic sets turn up at après-ski, but there is no theatre or concert hall. Visitors who want a programme drive to Breckenridge, which has a summer classical music season and a small theatre.

Relaxation here means a hot tub. Many condos and lodges have outdoor tubs looking up at the slopes, and the resort athletic club adds pools and massages. Evenings are quiet and the mountain air is clean, but there is no bathing tradition and no real spa culture. The nearest hot springs are a long drive across the mountains, and the altitude can disturb sleep for the first couple of nights.