Gatlinburg or Wisconsin Dells?

Neither town is near a sea, but Wisconsin Dells makes far more of the water. Devil's Lake has sandy beaches at both ends under quartzite bluffs and warms up nicely in midsummer, while Mirror Lake and Lake Delton have calmer spots closer to town.

In Gatlinburg, swimming means wading or tubing in cold mountain rivers such as the Little River near Townsend, where the currents can be strong. For most visitors there, a dip means the cabin hot tub.

Food is about equal in both towns, and both are designed to feed families quickly between attractions. They differ in regional flavour. Gatlinburg has pancake houses, barbecue and moonshine tastings, with the odd plate of trout, country ham and biscuits.

Wisconsin Dells has supper clubs serving prime rib and brandy old fashioneds, a Friday fish fry and fresh cheese curds. For a properly good dinner, people drive out of either town, to Knoxville or Asheville from Gatlinburg and to Madison from the Dells.

Neither town offers much traditional sightseeing, and that is about equal. What heritage there is takes different forms. In Gatlinburg it is mostly craft, at the working studios of the Great Smoky Arts and Crafts Community, and the mountain families' log cabins and mills are a drive away at Cades Cove.

Wisconsin Dells has one serious stop in the H.H. Bennett Studio, which shows how photographs of the gorges first drew tourists to the area. Otherwise it offers the cheerful oddity of upside-down houses and wax museums on Broadway.

Nightlife is thin and much the same in both towns, and anyone wanting a real night out should look elsewhere. In Gatlinburg the evening means walking the lit Parkway, trying moonshine at tasting rooms or sitting in a rooftop brewery. In the Dells it means a tavern, a sports bar or a cocktail at a supper-club bar, with a late casino near Baraboo the only real exception.

This is where the two differ most, and Gatlinburg is far ahead. It sits at the entrance to the Great Smoky Mountains, with waterfall trails, the climb to Mount LeConte, the high road to Clingmans Dome and wildlife you are likely to see from the car. There is also whitewater rafting on the Pigeon River. The price is traffic at the busiest trailheads.

Wisconsin Dells has real but smaller landscapes. You can explore the sandstone gorges of the Wisconsin River by boat or kayak, and Devil's Lake has bluff trails and good rock climbing. The country is low and gentle rather than mountainous.

The day trips are about level, and in both towns they are best done with a car. From Gatlinburg the standout is Asheville and the Biltmore Estate. Cherokee lies over the mountains, with its museum of the Eastern Band, and Knoxville is closer.

From Wisconsin Dells the outings run to Madison and its lakeside Capitol, Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin at Spring Green and Circus World in Baraboo. The Dells list is a little more varied, while Gatlinburg's scenic drives are better.

Both towns are made for children, and they are close to level, with Wisconsin Dells slightly ahead for the very young. Its indoor waterpark resorts keep everything under one warm roof all year, and duck-boat rides through the gorges add a little sightseeing.

Gatlinburg has more variety for older children, with an aquarium, alpine coasters, Dollywood nearby and real wildlife in the park. The trade-off is heavy traffic and long queues in high season.

Gatlinburg is the easier of the two without a car, though neither works well without one. Its downtown Parkway is compact and walkable, and a trolley runs through town and on to Pigeon Forge, so a downtown hotel lets you leave the car parked for a day or two.

Wisconsin Dells has no useful public transport. Its resorts and attractions are spread along highways that are unpleasant to walk, and only a few blocks of Broadway work on foot.

Gatlinburg has the better shopping, mainly because of its craft studios. Along the Arts and Crafts Community loop you can buy quilts, pottery, brooms and woodwork from the people who make them, and the outlet malls in Pigeon Forge are close by.

Wisconsin Dells offers mostly souvenirs and cheese shops, plus a single outlet centre for mainstream brands. It is useful on a rainy afternoon but has little made locally.

Both are mid-priced American resorts, and Gatlinburg tends to be a little kinder to the budget. A big shared cabin can work out well for a group, and the national park itself costs little, though paid attractions and Dollywood soon add up.

In Wisconsin Dells the expense is concentrated in the waterpark resorts and ride tickets at peak times. Outside summer and school vacations, the older motels and the free state parks make it more manageable.

Gatlinburg has more to listen to. Bluegrass and country musicians play in the tasting rooms and on the street, and the theatres in Pigeon Forge stage dinner shows and gospel revues most nights. The mountain music tradition runs through all of it.

Wisconsin Dells has magic shows and touring tribute acts. For anything more serious, you would drive to the outdoor classical theatre at Spring Green in summer or to Madison.

Neither town is a spa destination, and they are close to equal. They offer rest in different ways. In Gatlinburg it comes from the cabin itself, with a hot tub on the deck and mist on the ridges, well above the noisy strip.

Wisconsin Dells has more in the way of actual spas, including resort spas and an established adults-only retreat in the woods. Away from those, its quiet moments are mostly early mornings on the river or the off-season.