Lefkada or Zakynthos?

Both islands are among the best beach destinations in the Ionian, but their beaches are different. Lefkada's famous ones are long west-coast strands under white cliffs, such as Porto Katsiki, Egremni and Kathisma. They face the open sea, so expect afternoon waves and a steep drop-off. The calm swimming is on the east side.

Zakynthos has more soft sand in sheltered bays, around Laganas Bay, Vasilikos and the gentle north-east coast. Its most famous sight, the wreck at Navagio, is something you look down on from the clifftop or pass by boat, not a beach to spend the day on. On the west coast, swimming means climbing down from flat rocks at inlets such as Porto Limnionas.

The food is much the same: Greek tavernas, grilled fish and simple, honest cooking on both. Zakynthos has a few more dishes of its own to look for, such as skordostoumbi aubergines, ladotyri cheese kept in oil, mantolato nougat and Verdea wine. Lefkada's specialities are its Eglouvi lentils and cured salami, best eaten in the mountain villages around Karya. On both islands the resort strips cook for tourists, and Laganas and Tsilivi go furthest towards full English breakfasts.

Neither island is worth choosing for its sights. Each offers about half a day of them. Lefkada's are mostly outdoors: the Santa Maura fortress at the causeway, timber-framed houses built to survive earthquakes, and the Cape Lefkatas cliff linked to the legend of Sappho. Zakynthos has a bit more indoors. On Solomos Square in the rebuilt capital there are icons of the Ionian school in the Byzantine Museum and a museum to the poet Solomos, with the Venetian castle on Bochali hill above.

Zakynthos has far more going on after dark, but nearly all of it is on one street. From June to September the Laganas strip is lined with clubs, promoters and foam parties aimed mostly at young British groups. Away from it, the island is quiet and there is little choice of cocktail bars.

Lefkada never stays up that late. Its summer evenings are for strolling and having a drink: cocktail bars in the narrow lanes of Lefkada town, full of young Greek visitors, the harbour strip in Nidri with sailing crews, and easygoing bars in Vasiliki for the windsurfers. If you want to avoid a party crowd, Lefkada makes that easier.

Both islands have high white cliffs and green, olive-covered interiors, but they get you outdoors in different ways. Lefkada is the steeper island. It has the Dimosari waterfall and mountain paths between villages above 1,100m, and its real strength is wind and sail, from windsurfing at Vasiliki to kitesurfing at Agios Ioannis and yacht weeks through the sheltered channels.

Zakynthos is about wildlife and the view from the water. Laganas Bay is a marine park where loggerhead turtles nest, and early boat trips often spot them. There are also sea caves at Cape Skinari and good diving off the north and around Keri.

Lefkada makes a much better base for days out. It is joined to the mainland, so cars can reach Preveza and Roman Nikopolis, Parga under its Venetian castle, and the Acheron oracle site. Excursion boats from Nidri tour Meganisi, Kalamos and Kastos, and ferries from Vasiliki reach Ithaca and Fiskardo.

From Zakynthos, every trip starts with a ferry. In summer that means southern Kefalonia, or else the crossing to Kyllini for Chlemoutsi castle and a long day at ancient Olympia. Most visitors settle for a tour of the island's own villages and viewpoints.

Zakynthos is better set up for children. On the north-east coast at Tsilivi, Planos and Alykes, gently shelving sand sits next to resort hotels with pools and kids' clubs. Add a water park and boat trips to see turtles, and there is enough to fill a week. Just keep away from Laganas.

Lefkada also works with small children, but more simply. The calm bays around Nikiana, Ligia and Agiofili are safe for paddling, and boat trips to the islets are easy outings. Little is made for children, and the famous west-coast beaches, with surf, steep drop-offs and long cliff staircases, are best saved for an occasional day out.

On both islands you really need a hired car or scooter, because the buses link the main towns but not the beaches and viewpoints. Lefkada needs no ferry: a causeway joins it to the mainland, and Aktion airport is about half an hour away. Inside, though, the mountain and west-coast roads are slow, and in high summer traffic jams up in Nidri and parking fills at Porto Katsiki. Zakynthos is only about 40km long, so trips stay short, though the western roads are narrow and sometimes rough.

Neither island is a shopping destination, but Lefkada has a little more. Lefkada town's pedestrian main street makes a pleasant evening stroll past jewellers, small clothes shops and stalls selling local oil and lentils, and Karya is known for fine hand embroidery. On Zakynthos the best things to take home are edible: mantolato, thyme honey and Verdea wine, plus lace from around Volimes.

Both are mid-priced Greek islands, and the extras add up in the same way: car hire, boat trips and August rooms. Zakynthos is slightly cheaper overall because package tourism keeps room prices moderate across its big resorts even in summer. On Lefkada, the expensive stays are the ones near the famous west-coast beaches. On both, June or September is noticeably cheaper than August.

Lefkada's live performance is packed into the warm months. The international folklore festival fills open-air stages in Lefkada town every August with dance groups from many countries, and summer adds village festivals with Greek music and dancing. Come in any other season and there is very little to attend.

Zakynthos has no big event to match it, but it has a living tradition of its own that runs through the year. Kantades serenades, sung by a few male voices with guitar and mandolin, can turn up informally in tavernas in town and in the villages. The old philharmonic band plays at religious feasts, and the carnival before Lent brings the omilies, a folk street theatre performed by villagers.

Lefkada's quiet is found in its hills: a handful of yoga and retreat stays inland, slow interior villages and calm evenings in the small east-coast harbours. In August, though, its busiest resorts are anything but restful.

Zakynthos offers a little more of the spa kind. There are treatments in the larger resort hotels, and at Xigia on the north-east coast cool sulphur springs bubble into the sea. For calm, stay around Keri, Agios Leon or the Vasilikos peninsula, well away from Laganas.