Zakynthos

Beaches are the reason most people come, and the island offers more variety than its size suggests. The long sandy curve of Laganas Bay in the south holds Kalamaki, Gerakas and Dafni. Gerakas and Dafni are protected loggerhead turtle nesting beaches, kept undeveloped and quieter than the resort sands. The Vasilikos peninsula adds Banana Beach and smaller sandy coves. On the north-east coast, Tsilivi and Alykes have shallow, gentle water suited to easy swimming. The west coast is mostly cliff, broken by tiny rocky inlets such as Porto Limnionas, where swimmers climb down from flat rocks.

The sea is clear and turns a striking pale blue over white limestone. It is warm enough to swim from June to October and reaches about 25°C in August. The island's most famous image, the wrecked ship in Navagio cove, is a sight rather than a beach to plan around: it is seen from the clifftop viewpoint high above, or from the open sea on boat trips along the north-west coast. Boats from the northern tip also visit the Blue Caves, with swimming in very clear water. Expect crowded sunbeds at the resort beaches in high summer.

Eating out means Greek tavernas: grilled fish, souvlaki, salads dressed with island olive oil and slow-cooked casseroles. Zakynthos has its own foods too. Look for skordostoumbi, aubergines cooked with plenty of garlic, tomato and a sharp touch of vinegar, and ladotyri, a strong cheese kept in olive oil. The almond nougat mantolato is the island's sweet, and Verdea, a local white wine, is poured in many village tavernas. The best meals are usually found inland, in the villages around Keri in the south and along the quieter north coast. Laganas and Tsilivi lean towards full English breakfasts and international menus. Food is honest and enjoyable, but it is not a reason to choose the island.

The 1953 earthquake destroyed most of the elegant Venetian-era capital, and Zakynthos Town was rebuilt in a plain version of its old style. On Solomos Square stand the Byzantine Museum, with icons from the island's Ionian school of painting, and a museum to the national poet Dionysios Solomos. Nearby are the waterfront church of Agios Dionysios and the ruined Venetian castle on Bochali hill above the town. Outside town are village churches with free-standing bell towers and the monastery of Anafonitria. That is a pleasant half day or so, not a reason to come.

Going out here means Laganas. In summer its main strip is a long row of bars and clubs with promoters, foam parties and drinking until dawn, aimed mostly at young British groups. It is loud, cheap and unpolished, and it runs from roughly June to September. Outside that strip the island goes quiet. Tsilivi has family-friendly bars, Zakynthos Town has waterfront cafés and a few late bars used by locals, and the villages end the evening at the taverna. Anyone after cocktail bars or a varied scene will find little, and anyone avoiding parties should stay well away from Laganas.

The best of the landscape is coast seen from above or from the water. The west and north are lined with high white limestone cliffs, with the Keri headland in the south and the cliffs above Navagio as the great viewpoints. Boats explore the sea caves around Cape Skinari. Laganas Bay is a national marine park where loggerhead turtles nest, and early-morning boat trips often spot them, along with the islets of Marathonisi and Pelouzo. Diving and snorkelling are good off the north and the Keri caves, and kayaking along the cliffs is popular. Inland, olive-covered hills rise to Mount Vrachionas, with quiet walking and cycling between villages, best in spring and autumn.

Leaving the island takes a ferry, which limits the options. In summer a ferry runs from the north tip at Agios Nikolaos to southern Kefalonia, which is enough for a long day there, ideally with a hire car. From Zakynthos Town, ferries take about an hour to Kyllini on the mainland. The Frankish castle of Chlemoutsi is close to the port, and ancient Olympia is a long but realistic full day beyond it. Most visitors make do with an island tour of villages and viewpoints instead.

With young children, base yourself on the north-east coast. Tsilivi, Planos and Alykes have gently shelving sand, calm water and resort hotels with pools and kids' clubs. Kalamaki and the Vasilikos beaches also work well, away from the noise of Laganas. Children enjoy boat trips to spot turtles and see the sea caves, and there is a large water park inland. Beyond that, little is made for children, and the July and August heat makes the middle of the day hard work. Several famous beaches are reached by steep paths or by boat only. Greek tavernas welcome children warmly, and the island is small enough that journeys stay short.

The island is only about 40km long, so no journey is long, but getting around with ease takes a car or scooter. Buses run from Zakynthos Town to the main resorts such as Laganas, Tsilivi and Alykes. They are no use for the cliffs, villages and viewpoints of the west and north, where roads are narrow, winding and sometimes rough. Many beaches and caves are reached by boat, and organised excursions depart from most resorts. The resort strips themselves are walkable, and taxis are easy to find.

Shopping is modest. In Zakynthos Town, Alexandrou Roma street has local shops, pharmacies and some clothing. The resort strips mostly sell beachwear and souvenirs. Things worth bringing home are edible: mantolato nougat, thyme honey, olive oil and Verdea wine. Look for village lace and weaving around Volimes in the north. There is no fashion or design shopping to speak of.

Zakynthos is a mid-priced Greek island, built largely around package tourism. That keeps room prices across the big resorts moderate even in summer. Taverna meals and local wine are reasonable. Boat trips, car hire and sunbeds add up over a week, and in August the best-placed rooms in quiet coves cost noticeably more. Booking a package or travelling in June or September keeps costs down.

The island has a musical tradition of its own. Kantades and arekia are serenade songs sung by small groups of male voices with guitar and mandolin, often heard informally in tavernas in Zakynthos Town and the villages. The town has an old philharmonic band that plays at religious feasts. At carnival, villagers perform omilies, a traditional folk street theatre. Beyond that there is little to attend: no regular theatre, concert or opera season, and evening shows in the resorts are mostly Greek dancing nights.

Wellness here comes from the pace rather than from any bathing culture. Spas are found in the larger resort hotels, and at Xigia on the north-east coast cool sulphur springs bubble into the sea. For rest, stay in the hill villages around Keri or Agios Leon, on the Vasilikos peninsula, or near the small harbours of the north. Evenings there are slow and quiet. Avoid Laganas and the busiest stretch of Tsilivi if calm matters.