Crete or Zakynthos?

Both islands are first and foremost beach destinations, and they are about level. The difference is range against concentration. Crete's best sand is spread around a big coastline: the pink-tinged lagoons of Elafonissi, the turquoise bay at Balos and the long sunset beach of Falassarna in the west, the palm-backed bay at Vai in the east, and on the south coast, pebble coves on the Libyan Sea that you reach by boat or on foot.

Zakynthos packs its variety into a much smaller area. You have the sandy curve of Laganas Bay with the protected turtle beaches of Gerakas and Dafni, the coves of the Vasilikos peninsula and calm water at Tsilivi and Alykes. In the west, swimmers climb down from rocks at Porto Limnionas, and boats run to the Blue Caves. The famous Navagio wreck is something you look at from above, not a beach to spend the day on.

On Crete, food is a reason to come in its own right. The cooking is based on the island's olive oil, wild greens, graviera and mizithra cheeses, slow-cooked lamb and dakos, and a free glass of raki ends most meals. The best eating is in the backstreets of Chania and Rethymno and in the countryside tavernas, and the vineyards south of Heraklion add a serious wine culture.

Zakynthos feeds you well in a plainer way. Look for skordostoumbi, ladotyri cheese kept in oil and a glass of the local Verdea, ideally in the villages around Keri. In Laganas and Tsilivi, menus mostly cater to package visitors.

This is where the two islands are furthest apart. Crete was the centre of Minoan civilisation. Knossos, Phaistos, Malia and the finest Minoan collection anywhere in the Heraklion Archaeological Museum would fill a week on their own, before you add Chania's Venetian harbour, the fortress at Rethymno, Spinalonga and Arkadi.

On Zakynthos, the 1953 earthquake destroyed most of the Venetian-era capital. What remains is a modest circuit: Solomos Square with its Byzantine and Solomos museums, the church of Agios Dionysios, the castle on Bochali hill and a few village churches. It is a pleasant break from the beach rather than a reason to go.

Both islands have a loud package-resort party strip, so the real difference is what else there is. On Zakynthos, going out means Laganas: foam parties, promoters and drinking until dawn, mostly for young British groups. Away from it, the island is quiet, with little more than waterfront cafés in town.

Crete has its own party pair in Malia and Hersonissos. It also has a more grown-up evening in Chania's harbour, on Rethymno's waterfront and in Heraklion's café-bar quarter, with cocktail bars full of Greek students and locals. If you want a mix of evenings, choose Crete. For one all-out party week, Laganas is the more single-minded choice.

Crete's interior is real mountain country. The White Mountains and Psiloritis keep snow into spring, and gorges such as Samaria, Imbros and Aradena run down to the sea. The E4 long-distance path crosses the island, griffon vultures circle above, and wild kri-kri goats live in the west. Hikers, climbers and cyclists can fill a whole trip here.

On Zakynthos, the best scenery is the coast, seen from high cliffs at Keri and above Navagio, or from the water. Boat trips go to the Skinari sea caves and through the marine park in Laganas Bay, where loggerhead turtles nest, and the snorkelling and kayaking are good. Inland, the walking around Mount Vrachionas is gentle and rural rather than dramatic.

Crete is big enough that its own towns make good days out: Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos are each worth a visit. There are also the wine villages around Peza and Archanes, the potters of Margarites, boat outings to Chrissi and Gramvousa, and the long but popular fast-ferry day to Santorini.

On Zakynthos, almost every outing beyond an island tour means a ferry. In summer, southern Kefalonia is a long day across the water. From Kyllini on the mainland, you can reach the Chlemoutsi castle or, with a very early start, ancient Olympia.

Both islands suit a beach-based family vacation, and Crete has a little more to fill the days. Its north coast and the area around Chania have long, gently shelving sand. Elafonissi's warm lagoon is ideal for small children, and the waterparks and the large aquarium at Gournes are good for a day off the beach.

Zakynthos is simpler but easier to manage. The north-east beaches at Tsilivi, Planos and Alykes are calm and shallow, children love the turtle-spotting boats, and there is a large water park inland. Short journeys are its real advantage, compared with Crete's long, winding drives. Both islands get very hot in midsummer.

Crete is a large, mountainous island, and distance is the real obstacle there. Reliable buses link Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos along the north coast and reach a few trailheads. The beaches, gorges and villages in the south mean steep, winding roads and drives that take longer than the map suggests.

Zakynthos is only about 40km long, so nothing is far, even though buses go only to the main resorts. The trouble there is the narrow, sometimes rough roads in the west and north, and the many beaches and caves you can only reach by boat. Excursions leave from most resorts, and the resort strips are easy to walk.

Neither island is a shopping destination, but Crete gives you more to browse. Chania's leather-makers' lane, its knife-makers and its covered market hall are worth an hour, as are the cheeses and herbs on Heraklion's market street and the ceramics from Margarites.

On Zakynthos, the best souvenirs are edible: mantolato nougat, thyme honey and Verdea wine. Add some lace and weaving from around Volimes, and the local shops on Alexandrou Roma in town.

Costs are much the same on both, mid-priced by Greek island standards, and on both the shoulder months of June and September give the best balance. On Crete, the savings are in village tavernas and family-run rooms, while car hire is the cost nobody escapes, and Elounda and the famous western beaches push prices up.

Zakynthos is built around package tourism, which keeps resort rooms moderate. Boat trips, sunbeds and car hire add up over a week, though, and secluded rooms in quiet coves cost more in August.

Neither island has a theatre or concert season, but Crete's music is the more alive. The lyra, improvised mantinades verses and circle dances fill music tavernas in Rethymno and Chania and summer saints' festivals, Anogia is famous for its musicians, and summer festivals take over fortresses and open-air theatres.

Zakynthos has its own quieter tradition: kantades and arekia serenades with guitar and mandolin, which you might hear by chance in a taverna. There is also the town's old philharmonic band, and the omilies street theatre at carnival.

Crete has the stronger spa offer, with serious resort spas gathered around Elounda and the Gulf of Mirabello and more along the north coast near Chania and Heraklion. For real peace there are places like Loutro, which you can only reach by boat or on foot, and the hill villages among the olive groves.

Zakynthos has its spas mainly in the larger resort hotels, plus something Crete lacks: the cool sulphur springs bubbling into the sea at Xigia. The calmest bases are the hill villages around Keri and Agios Leon, well away from Laganas.