Crete or Milos?

Both islands are first-rate for swimming, but they offer different kinds of beach. Crete has range and distance: the pink sand and shallow lagoon at Elafonissi, Balos under the Gramvousa peninsula and Falassarna's long strand in the far west, palms at Vai in the east, and long resort beaches with sunbeds along the north coast. The pebble coves of the south coast, such as Preveli, add a wilder side, but you can't fit them all into one stay.

Milos packs its beaches into a small volcanic island. The pumice inlets of Sarakiniko and the sandy bays of Firiplaka, Tsigrado and Paliochori are all short drives apart, and the colours of the rock make them unlike any beach on Crete. Many have no sunbeds or shade, and the north wind decides each day which coast is calm.

Crete is a place to travel for food, and Milos is not. Crete's cooking has a strong identity of its own: wild greens, graviera and mizithra cheeses, slow-cooked lamb, dakos and a glass of raki after the meal. The village tavernas and the backstreets of Chania and Rethymno are where it is best, and Heraklion adds a market street and wine from the vineyards to its south.

Milos eats well but more simply. Its tavernas serve grilled octopus and fresh fish on the waterfront, along with island specialities such as pitarakia cheese pies and ladenia flatbread. The choice is narrow, and in the busiest weeks the harbour places are cooking for the crowds.

Crete has one of the great archaeological sites of Europe, and Milos has a pleasant few days of sightseeing. Knossos and the Heraklion museum, home to the Phaistos Disc and the Minoan frescoes, are reason enough to visit Crete. Venetian Chania, Ottoman Rethymno, Spinalonga and Arkadi monastery add later history across the island.

The heritage on Milos is worth seeing but on a much smaller scale. It includes the early Christian catacombs, the field where the Venus de Milo was found, a Roman theatre above the bay, Plaka's castle and the painted boathouses at Klima.

Crete has real choice after dark. The resort strips of Malia and Hersonissos have loud bars and clubs that stay open late for young groups. Chania's harbour, Rethymno's waterfront and Heraklion's old centre offer cocktail bars and terraces full of Greek students as well as visitors.

Milos ends the day early on purpose. Evenings mean sunset from Plaka's castle hill, a long dinner and a drink in Adamas or Pollonia, and nowhere to go dancing afterwards.

Crete's interior is genuine mountain country. The White Mountains and Psiloritis rise above 2,400m, the Samaria gorge leads down to the sea, and the E4 path and the coast path through Loutro and Sfakia make for serious walking. Griffon vultures and the kri-kri goat live there, and climbers come for Agiofarago.

The natural drama on Milos is all on the coast. Its volcanic cliffs, sea arches and the rock towers at Kleftiko are best seen from a sailing boat or a kayak. Inland the island is low, dry and marked by quarries, and its trails are pleasant rather than demanding.

From a base on Crete, the other towns, the wine villages around Peza and Archanes, and mountain villages like Anogia make easy days out. You can also take a boat to Chrissi, or the fast ferry to Santorini in about two hours. The catch is size: crossing the whole island takes most of a day.

From Milos the choice is smaller and depends on the boats. Kimolos is a short hop from Pollonia and shows a very quiet Cycladic island, and in summer Sifnos is about an hour away by fast ferry. Wind and timetables can upset any plan.

Crete is far better set up for children. Resort hotels along the north coast have pools and kids' clubs, there are waterparks and the large aquarium at Gournes, and the warm, shallow lagoon at Elafonissi is ideal for toddlers. The drawbacks are midsummer heat and long, winding drives.

Milos works for families who only want simple beach days. Pollonia's sheltered village beach and the gently shelving sand at Provatas and Paliochori are good with small children. Beyond that there is nothing aimed at children, many beaches are down dirt tracks, and the long ferry crossing can be rough.

On both islands you really need a car, but for different reasons. Crete is big and mountainous: buses link the north-coast towns well, but the south coast is reached on steep, winding roads, and drives take longer than the map suggests. On the other hand, getting there is easy, with international airports at Heraklion and Chania.

Milos is the reverse. Nowhere is more than about forty minutes from Adamas, although the west is reached on dirt roads and the buses miss most of the coast. Getting to the island is the hard part, by a long ferry or a short flight from Athens.

Neither island is a shopping destination, but Crete gives you more to browse. Chania's leather-makers' lane, its knife-makers and covered market hall, and Heraklion's market street of cheese, herbs and raki are fun to explore. On Milos, shopping means a few linen and jewellery boutiques in Plaka and a jar of local capers or honey to take home.

Crete is noticeably easier on the budget. Family-run rooms and generous village tavernas keep costs reasonable, and prices only climb around the famous western beaches, Chania's old town and the luxury resorts of Elounda.

Milos is expensive in high summer, mainly because rooms in Pollonia, Plaka and Adamas fill early and cost a lot, and boat trips and car hire add more. On both islands June and September are cheaper, and on Milos, staying in the inland villages saves money.

Crete has a living music tradition that visitors can actually hear. The lyra and lute, improvised mantinades verses and fast circle dances fill the music tavernas of Rethymno and Chania, and Anogia is famous for its players. There are also summer festivals in the fortresses and open-air theatres of Heraklion and Chania.

On Milos, live music is almost entirely the summer panigyria, village saints'-day feasts with violin and lute. They are a joy if you happen to be there for one.

The volcano sets the two islands apart here. Milos has hot springs, and Crete has no bathing tradition of its own. On Crete, wellness means resort spas, the best of them around Elounda and the Gulf of Mirabello, or simply slowing down in Loutro, which you can only reach by boat or on foot.

On Milos you can soak in the rustic old baths at Lakkos in Adamas or in the springs near Provatas, and at Paliochori the sand and seabed are warm underfoot. There are only a few hotel spas, and the rest of the rest comes from slow mornings, siestas and long dinners.