Paros or Zakynthos?

These are two of the best beach islands in Greece, and neither is clearly better for a swim. Paros has sandy bays all round its coast, from the granite-studded coves of Kolymbithres to the wide, gently shelving sands of Golden Beach and Drios. When the meltemi blows, the south and west coasts are the place to shelter.

Zakynthos has more contrast. There is the long sandy curve of Laganas Bay, the protected turtle beaches at Gerakas and Dafni, and shallow water at Tsilivi and Alykes. On the cliff-lined west coast, at Porto Limnionas, you climb down to the sea from rocks. Its most famous sights, Navagio and the Blue Caves, are for looking at from boats or clifftops, not for spending the day on.

Paros eats better. Tables line Naoussa's harbour with octopus drying in the sun, and the island cooks chickpeas slowly in clay pots, makes its own cheeses and souma, and has wineries growing local grapes. A few more polished modern Greek restaurants add range, though many kitchens close out of season.

Zakynthos has dishes worth looking for, such as skordostoumbi, ladotyri and mantolato, with Verdea wine in the villages around Keri. But Laganas and Tsilivi lean towards full English breakfasts and international menus, so you have to search harder for a good meal.

Neither island is a sightseeing destination, but Paros has more to show. The Ekatontapiliani is one of the oldest churches in Greece. Add the castle in Parikia, built partly from reused ancient marble, the quarries at Marathi that supplied classical sculptors and the lanes of Lefkes, and you have several pleasant half-days.

On Zakynthos the 1953 earthquake destroyed most of the Venetian capital. What remains is the Byzantine Museum's Ionian icons, the Solomos museum and the castle ruins on Bochali hill, which fill about half a day.

The two are close for a night out, but the nights feel very different. On Paros, evenings centre on Naoussa's cocktail bars around the harbour, where a well-dressed crowd stays out past midnight. Parikia's seafront has a looser strip of bars and a few late clubs.

Zakynthos puts almost everything into the Laganas strip, with clubs, foam parties and drinking until dawn, aimed mostly at young British groups. Away from it the island goes quiet. Choose Paros for a polished evening and Laganas for a party.

Zakynthos has far more landscape. High white limestone cliffs line the west and north coasts, and loggerhead turtles nest in the Laganas Bay marine park. Divers and kayakers head for the sea caves around Cape Skinari and Keri, and the olive-covered hills rising to Mount Vrachionas make good walking in spring and autumn.

Paros is low, dry Cycladic hill country with no mountains or forests. Its outdoor strength is the wind: Golden Beach, New Golden Beach and Pounta are among the best windsurfing and kitesurfing spots in the Aegean. The Byzantine path from Lefkes is a fine short walk.

Paros sits in the middle of the Cyclades and is much the better base for island-hopping. Antiparos is a short crossing and Naxos less than an hour away. In summer, fast boats reach Mykonos, Ios and Sifnos, though a strong meltemi can disrupt the smaller boats and services thin out of season.

Zakynthos is at the end of the line. Your realistic options are a summer ferry to southern Kefalonia, or the crossing to Kyllini for Chlemoutsi castle and a long day out to ancient Olympia.

Both islands suit a family beach stay, with shallow sand and tavernas that welcome children. The difference is in what you find besides the sea. At Tsilivi, Planos and Alykes on Zakynthos, resort hotels have pools and kids' clubs, and there is an inland water park and boat trips to spot turtles. On the other hand, some famous beaches need a steep path or a boat, and the midsummer heat is fierce.

Paros has nothing built for children. Its strength is calm villages and gently shelving bays such as Golden Beach and Logaras, with Parikia or the east coast as a quiet base.

Paros is easier to manage without a car. In summer, buses from Parikia reach Naoussa, Lefkes, the east-coast villages and the main beaches, and small boats cross the bay from Naoussa. Driving from one side of the island to the other takes less than half an hour.

On Zakynthos, buses only link the town with the main resorts. To reach the cliffs, viewpoints and villages of the west and north, you need a car or scooter on narrow, winding roads, or a place on a boat excursion.

On a summer evening, Paros gives you somewhere to browse. Naoussa's whitewashed lanes and Parikia's old market street have small boutiques selling linen and resort wear, Greek designer jewellery, sandals and ceramics, and Lefkes has a few craft workshops. The range is narrow and Naoussa's prices are high, but it makes a pleasant hour after the beach.

Zakynthos has less to look at. The resort strips sell beachwear and souvenirs, and Alexandrou Roma street in the town is for everyday errands. The things worth taking home are mostly edible, such as mantolato nougat, thyme honey and olive oil, along with village lace from around Volimes.

Zakynthos is the cheaper island. Because it is built on package tourism, rooms in the big resorts stay moderately priced through the summer. In August, though, rooms in the best quiet coves cost noticeably more.

Paros charges resort prices in high summer, especially for rooms and harbour tables in Naoussa. Staying in Parikia or the inland villages and coming in June or September helps. On both islands, car hire, sunbeds and boat trips add up over a week.

Neither island has a theatre or concert season, so live music comes through tradition. On Paros that means island violin and lute at the summer village feast days, the mid-August feast at the Ekatontapiliani and Naoussa's pirate-raid festival. Zakynthos has its own kantades serenades, often heard in tavernas, an old philharmonic band that plays at religious feasts, and omilies folk street theatre at carnival.

On both islands, what relaxes you is the slow pace, not spas or bathing culture. Paros has a handful of yoga and retreat centres, quiet villages such as Lefkes and Marpissa, and Antiparos across the water. Zakynthos has cool sulphur springs bubbling into the sea at Xigia, and calm bases in the hill villages around Keri or on the Vasilikos peninsula. For peace, avoid Naoussa in August on Paros and Laganas on Zakynthos.