Wisconsin Dells

There is no sea here, but lake swimming is a real part of a Wisconsin summer. Devil's Lake State Park, about half an hour south, has sandy beaches at both ends of a clear lake under quartzite bluffs. In July and August the water reaches around 24°C. Closer to town, Mirror Lake and Lake Delton have small beaches and calm water for paddling about.

The season is short, roughly June to early September, and the beaches get very busy on summer weekends. Most visitors do their swimming in the indoor and outdoor waterparks, which is what the town is built around. Treat lake bathing as a pleasant half day out rather than the point of the trip.

Eating out here mostly means feeding a family between attractions: steakhouses, pizza, buffets and burger places along the main strips. The local touch comes from Wisconsin traditions. Old-style supper clubs serve relish trays, prime rib and brandy old fashioneds, and on Fridays the fish fry, usually breaded cod or walleye, is close to a ritual. Fresh squeaky cheese curds, deep-fried or straight from the bag, and fudge shops on Broadway are part of most visits. Local breweries and nearby wineries add some interest for adults. Range and depth are limited, though, and serious food lovers usually save themselves for a day in Madison.

This is a town built for amusement rather than sightseeing. The most worthwhile historic stop is the H.H. Bennett Studio, a state historic site. It tells how a nineteenth-century landscape photographer's pictures of the river gorges first drew tourists here. The Ho-Chunk Nation's long presence in the area is reflected in some local exhibits and events. Beyond those, the downtown along Broadway is a strip of mid-century tourist architecture, upside-down houses, wax and oddity museums and themed facades, which are fun for kids but not heritage. Visitors who want museums and history head out of town for the day.

Evenings here are geared to families, and most of the town is quiet once the waterparks close. Adults will find a handful of taverns and sports bars around Broadway and Lake Delton, brewery taprooms and supper-club bars good for a cocktail after dinner. A tribal casino near Baraboo stays open late for anyone who wants it. There is no club scene, and outside summer weekends the bars are mostly locals. For a proper night out, people drive to Madison.

The Dells themselves are the reason the town exists. For several kilometres the Wisconsin River cuts through layered sandstone, carving narrow canyons, cliffs and odd rock formations. The best way to see them is by boat, kayak or canoe, and walking trails run through Rocky Arbor and Mirror Lake State Parks. About half an hour south, Devil's Lake State Park is the area's outdoor centre. It has quartzite bluffs above a glacial lake, steep trails over boulders, some of the Midwest's best rock climbing, and the wider Baraboo Hills to explore.

Autumn colour in the bluffs is superb. Winter brings cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and small downhill ski hills nearby. This is a gentle, low landscape, not a mountainous one, but it offers more than most visitors to a waterpark town expect.

The best day out is Madison, about an hour away by car. The state capital sits on an isthmus between two lakes, with a domed Capitol, a large university campus and a Saturday farmers' market around the Capitol Square in season. Southwest, also about an hour, Spring Green has Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesin estate and the eccentric House on the Rock. Closer, Baraboo has Circus World, a museum in the winter quarters of the Ringling Brothers, and the International Crane Foundation.

Wineries along the Wisconsin River and small towns like Mineral Point add quieter options. Milwaukee is at the edge of a comfortable day, about two hours away. It is a fair, varied list rather than a long one, and a car is needed for all of it.

Few places are so entirely built around children. The town calls itself the waterpark capital of the world, with good reason. It has America's largest outdoor waterpark and several huge indoor waterpark resorts that stay warm and open right through the Wisconsin winter. Around them are go-kart tracks, mini-golf courses, rollercoasters, arcades and amphibious duck-boat rides through the river gorges. Many hotels have their own slides and pools, so younger children never need to leave the building.

The tone is wholesome and unhurried, and nothing is far by car. Devil's Lake and the river trails give a change from the slides. What it lacks is variety for teenagers who tire of water rides. It can also feel crowded and loud on summer weekends.

Plan on driving. There is no useful public transport, and the attractions, resorts and outlets are spread along highways and strips between Wisconsin Dells and Lake Delton. Distances are short, mostly a few minutes by car, but the roads are not pleasant or safe to walk along. The one exception is downtown Broadway, a few blocks you can stroll between fudge shops and boat-tour docks. The nearest airport with regular flights is Madison, about an hour away, and most visitors arrive by car from Chicago, Milwaukee or the Twin Cities.

Shopping here is mostly souvenirs. Broadway and the commercial strips toward Lake Delton are lined with T-shirt and novelty shops, candy and taffy counters and Wisconsin cheese shops. Children enjoy browsing them, but they carry much the same stock. A large outlet centre on the edge of town covers the mainstream American clothing and sportswear brands, and it is the obvious place to go on a wet afternoon. There are no independent boutiques, design shops, serious craft studios or department stores, so for most visitors shopping is a short break between attractions rather than something to plan a day around.

The town is a mid-priced American resort, and costs depend heavily on the season and on how much you do. Summer weekends and school vacations are the expensive times, when the big waterpark resorts are full. Then the bill for rides, tickets and resort extras grows quickly for a family. Away from the peak, and in the many older motels along the strips, rooms are fairly moderate. Eating out is typical for the Midwest rather than expensive. Free outdoor options such as the state parks help balance the cost of the paid attractions.

Performance here is family entertainment: magic and variety shows, a few dinner shows and a theatre in Lake Delton that hosts touring country acts, tribute bands and comedians. Bars occasionally have local bands on summer weekends. There is no resident theatre, orchestra or jazz scene. Visitors who care about the stage often drive about an hour to Spring Green for its well-regarded outdoor classical theatre in summer, or to Madison for concerts.

Some quiet can be found here, but the town is not made for slowing down. Several of the larger resorts have full-service spas, and a long-established adults-only spa retreat in the woods gives parents a real escape for a day or two. Otherwise the pace is set by waterslides and arcades, and summer weekends are noisy. The calmest moments come early in the morning on the river or in the off-season, when the lakes and pine woods are empty.