Corfu or Lefkada?

Both islands are first-rate beach destinations, but the beaches are different. Corfu offers more variety: long sandy beaches with sunsets on the west coast at Glyfada and the dune-backed Issos, clear coves at Paleokastritsa, shallow sand in the north and calm pebble bays in the northeast, with Antipaxos a boat ride away.

Lefkada's beaches are more spectacular. Porto Katsiki, Egremni and Kathisma lie under white cliffs in water of a startling turquoise, but they face the open sea, shelve steeply and catch afternoon waves. Its calmer swimming is in the small bays of the east coast and at Vasiliki and Agiofili in the south.

Corfu gives a food lover more to look for. Its Venetian past shows in dishes found nowhere else in Greece, pastitsada, sofrito and the peppery fish stew bourdeto, along with kumquat liqueur and local ginger beer, and Corfu Town's back lanes are the place to eat them.

Lefkada keeps to the classic Greek taverna, done well: fish on the harbour at Nidri, meat in the mountain villages, and the island's own lentils and salami around Karya and Englouvi. It is satisfying, simple eating, but there is no distinct cuisine to explore and little beyond Greek food.

On culture Corfu is far ahead. Corfu Town is a sight in its own right, an Italianate old town of tall Venetian houses and narrow kantounia between the Old and New Fortresses, with the Liston arcades, Agios Spyridon and two serious museums. Beyond it lie the Achilleion and the clifftop ruin of Angelokastro.

Lefkada's sights fill a morning rather than a trip: the Santa Maura fortress at the causeway, a small museum and painted Ionian churches in town, the Faneromeni monastery, Karya's embroidery and the cliff at Cape Lefkatas tied to the legend of Sappho.

Corfu has the wider range of evenings. Kavos at the southern tip is an all-night party resort for young visitors, Ipsos and Dassia offer a smaller run of beach bars, and Corfu Town supplies cocktails under the Liston and a few clubs along the coast road.

Lefkada has no clubbing scene. Summer nights mean strolling and drinking in the lanes of Lefkada town, on Nidri's harbour among the sailing crews, or in Vasiliki's laid-back bars with the windsurfers, and outside July and August things wind down early.

Lefkada is slightly the stronger choice outdoors, mainly because of what happens on the water. Vasiliki's reliable afternoon winds have made it a famous windsurfing bay, Agios Ioannis draws kitesurfers, and the sheltered channels among the satellite islands are ideal for a sailing week. On land, the interior rises above 1,100m, with the Dimosari waterfall and the cliff road to Cape Lefkatas.

Corfu is the greener and gentler island, covered in olive groves and spring flowers. It offers the Corfu Trail from end to end, walks on Mount Pantokrator with views to Albania, diving in the sea caves around Paleokastritsa and birds at the Korission lagoon.

The two are evenly matched for day trips, and both rely on boats, but they lead in different directions. Corfu's outings include another country: the short crossing to Saranda in Albania opens up the ruins of Butrint, and Paxos with Antipaxos makes a classic island day. Most of these trips run only in the main season.

Lefkada is better for hopping between Ionian islands, to Meganisi, Kalamos, Ithaca and Fiskardo on Kefalonia. Because it is joined to the mainland, it also allows road trips to Roman Nikopolis, the oracle at the Acheron and Parga.

Corfu is the easier island with children. Long, gently shelving sands at Roda, Acharavi and Issos, resorts with pools and kids' clubs, an inland water park and the Corfu Town fortresses give families plenty to do, provided they stay away from Kavos.

Lefkada can work, but only from the right base. The calm east coast bays around Nikiana and Ligia are good for paddling, while the famous west coast has steep drops, surf and long cliff stairways, and there is almost nothing built for children.

Both islands really need a hired car or scooter, as their buses are too infrequent for exploring. On Corfu the distances are greater, about 60km from end to end, and summer traffic builds around the town and airport, but Corfu Town itself is a pleasure on foot.

Lefkada is smaller and joined to the mainland by a causeway, so there is no ferry to catch from Aktion airport. Its winding cliff and mountain roads are still slow, though, and in midsummer it is hard to find parking at Porto Katsiki.

Neither island is a shopping trip, but Corfu has more to browse. The old lanes of Corfu Town around Nikiforou Theotoki and behind the Liston hold olive-wood bowls, kumquat sweets, soaps and handmade jewellery. On Lefkada it comes down to an evening walk along Lefkada town's single pedestrian street, plus traditional embroidery in Karya.

Prices are broadly similar on the two islands, and both are noticeably cheaper outside July and August. On Corfu the large package resorts in the north and east keep rooms reasonable, while the villas around Kassiopi and Corfu Town in summer cost more. Lefkada's family-run studios and the scarcity of entry fees help, but August rooms near the west-coast beaches, car hire and boat trips soon add up.

Corfu has a real musical life, which is unusual for a Greek island. Its historic philharmonic bands play in the Spianada and village squares all summer and accompany the Easter processions, kantades serenades still survive, and there are classical evenings in the Old Fortress. Lefkada's main event is its long-running international folklore festival each August, and otherwise it has village festivals and very little out of season.

Neither island has a bathing tradition, and on both rest comes from the pace of life more than from treatments. Corfu has a little more to offer, with more spas in its bigger resort hotels and yoga retreats among the western and northern olive groves, and the hill villages and quiet northeast coast are deeply restful.

Lefkada's retreats are fewer. Its calm is found in the interior villages and the small harbours of the east coast, best in June or September, before or after the August crowds.