Crete or Kefalonia?

Both islands have outstanding beaches, but the experience differs. Crete gives more variety and more sand: the pink-tinged shallows of Elafonissi, the turquoise lagoon at Balos, the long open strand of Falassarna, the palms at Vai and easy resort beaches along the north coast, with wilder pebble coves such as Preveli on the south side.

Kefalonia is more about pebbles, cliffs and exceptionally clear water. Myrtos and Petani are white-shingle bays under steep green slopes, while the sandier, gentler beaches lie at Xi on Paliki and at Skala and Lourdas in the south. On both islands the best spots are spread across different coasts, so you choose a base and drive.

Crete eats better. Its cooking stands on its own, with island olive oil, wild greens, graviera, slow-cooked lamb and dakos, and the old towns of Chania and Rethymno and the market street in Heraklion reward a food-led trip, backed by the vineyards south of Heraklion.

Kefalonia has a few dishes worth seeking out, such as its spiced meat pie and aliada with salt cod, and Robola tastings in the Omala valley make a good afternoon. Away from Argostoli, though, harbour menus repeat from village to village, and neither island has much fine or international dining.

There is no contest here. Crete holds the heart of Minoan civilisation, with Knossos, Phaistos and the Heraklion Archaeological Museum, then layers Roman Gortyn, Venetian harbours and walls, Ottoman Rethymno, Spinalonga and Arkadi on top. It is enough to fill a trip on its own.

Kefalonia lost almost all its old buildings in the 1953 earthquake. Fiskardo's harbour houses, the fortress at Assos, the Mycenaean tomb at Tzanata and the monastery of Agios Gerasimos make pleasant half-days out, but nobody chooses the island for its sights.

Crete offers two real scenes: the loud package-resort strips of Malia and Hersonissos for young groups, and a more grown-up evening of cocktail bars and late terraces in Chania, Rethymno and Heraklion, kept lively by Greek students.

Kefalonia has neither in any strength. A summer night means Argostoli's square and the Lithostroto, the beach bars at Lassi or a harbour drink in Skala or Fiskardo, and outside July and August most places close before midnight.

Crete is the bigger outdoor destination. The White Mountains and Psiloritis rise above 2,400m, the Samaria gorge runs down to the Libyan Sea with Imbros and Aradena as shorter options, and the E4 path and the coast path to Loutro make serious walking, with climbing at Agiofarago besides.

Kefalonia is gentler and greener. The fir forest of Mount Ainos with its semi-wild horses, the cliffs above Myrtos, the Melissani lake cave and loggerhead turtles in Argostoli harbour make for varied days, and sea kayaking or sailing towards Ithaca suit it better than long hikes.

Crete has more to fill free days with. Its four main towns each feel different, the wine villages around Archanes and mountain Anogia show the inland island, and boats run to Chrissi and Gramvousa, with Santorini reachable by fast ferry from Heraklion for a long day.

Kefalonia's one outstanding outing is Ithaca, a short crossing from Sami to Vathy, Kioni and Frikes. Summer boats to Zakynthos and Lefkada add a little, but the list is short and most crossings stop outside the warm season.

Crete is easier with children. Long, gently shelving beaches on the north coast and around Chania come with resort pools and kids' clubs, Elafonissi's warm lagoon suits toddlers, and the waterparks and the aquarium at Gournes help on a hot day.

Kefalonia works for a beach-and-pool week if you stay near the sandy shallows of Skala, Lourdas or Xi, and the Melissani boat ride and the turtles go down well. With no theme parks, zoos or aquariums, a family that needs daily activities will run out of ideas faster.

On both islands a hire car is all but essential, and on both the roads are mountainous and winding. Crete at least has a reliable bus line linking Chania, Rethymno, Heraklion and Agios Nikolaos, but it is a far larger island, and crossing from one end to the other takes most of a day.

Kefalonia's buses run too rarely to rely on, yet the distances are shorter: Argostoli to Fiskardo takes about an hour and a half, and the ferry to Lixouri cuts out a long drive. Expect tight parking at Myrtos, Assos and Fiskardo in summer.

Neither island is for fashion, but Crete has more worth browsing. Chania's leather-makers' lane, knife-makers and covered market, Heraklion's stalls of cheese, herbs and raki, and the ceramics of Margarites make it a good place for crafts. Kefalonia offers the everyday shops of the Lithostroto and a few boutiques in Fiskardo, and its best souvenirs are edible: Robola, thyme honey and red mandoles.

Crete is the slightly gentler island on the wallet. Village tavernas and family-run rooms are good value, and costs only climb sharply in Chania's old town, around the famous western beaches and in luxury Elounda.

Kefalonia is a little dearer overall, with Fiskardo and Assos clearly the expensive spots, though the south around Skala and Lourdas is fair. On both, car hire is the cost you cannot avoid, and June or September is the best balance.

Crete is the better island for live music, because it can be heard on most summer evenings rather than by luck. Lyra and lute players lead fast circle dances and trade improvised mantinades verses in the music tavernas of Rethymno and Chania, mountain Anogia is known for its musicians, and on saints' days whole villages dance until late. On top of that, Heraklion and Chania put on summer festivals inside their fortresses and in open-air theatres.

Kefalonia has a gentler and much smaller offer. Its harmonised kantades serenades and the brass of Argostoli's philharmonic band are worth catching, but they come mainly at a village festival or an open-air concert in Argostoli's squares, so you are more likely to happen on one than to plan around it.

Neither island has a bathing culture, and on both the real restorative quality is pace rather than pampering. The difference is in kind: Crete has the more serious resort spas, gathered around Elounda and the Gulf of Mirabello, and car-free Loutro on the south coast for real quiet.

Kefalonia's spas are simply those of larger hotels at Lassi, Skala and Fiskardo, but the whole island runs slower, and the Paliki peninsula and north-east coast are easy places to switch off, especially in June and September.