Denver or Flagstaff?

Neither city is anywhere near the sea, and swimming is a small extra in both. What differs is the kind of water. Denver has sandy reservoir beaches at Cherry Creek and Chatfield on the edge of the city. Flagstaff's swimming is the cold creek pools and rock slides of Oak Creek Canyon, on the road down to Sedona, which are scenic but slippery and crowded at weekends.

Beer leads in both places, but Denver eats much better. Its taprooms fill whole warehouse blocks in RiNo, and there is real cooking beyond them: green chile poured over burritos, Colorado lamb and bison, chef-run restaurants in Highland and LoHi, and a long run of Vietnamese and Mexican places along Federal Boulevard.

Flagstaff has patio breweries downtown and in the Southside, plus diners, barbecue and the odd Navajo taco. That is enough to refuel after a day on the trail, but you would not choose the town for its food.

Denver has the deeper set of sights. The Denver Art Museum's Native American collection, the single-artist Clyfford Still Museum and the gold-domed Capitol sit together around Civic Center Park, and LoDo's warehouses and the Beaux-Arts Union Station add a couple of days of walking.

Flagstaff's list is shorter but distinctive. The Lowell Observatory, where Pluto was found in 1930, and the Museum of Northern Arizona's Hopi, Navajo and Zuni art are both worth a visit. The ancient pueblo ruins around the town add a kind of history Denver doesn't have.

Both towns go out in bars and breweries rather than clubs, but Denver offers much more of it. Game nights in LoDo, cocktail bars in RiNo, dive bars on East Colfax and quieter neighbourhood rounds in Highland give real choice, and bars stay open until 2am.

In Flagstaff, a night out is a short walk between taprooms and old Route 66 saloons downtown. Students liven it up during term, but it is usually over early, which suits people getting up for the Grand Canyon.

Both are true mountain bases, and Flagstaff has a slight edge because so much is close by. The San Francisco Peaks, a huge ponderosa forest, the lava fields of Sunset Crater and trails starting in town are all on its doorstep. The Grand Canyon's South Rim, Sedona and Meteor Crater are close enough for day outings, and the town's dark skies make stargazing part of the trip.

Denver's mountain country is bigger and higher, but you drive further to reach it. Red Rocks and the foothills above Golden are close, while Rocky Mountain National Park and the major I-70 ski resorts take about two hours. Skiers will find far more terrain from Denver than at Flagstaff's single ski area.

The two are about equal for day trips, but the outings are of different kinds. Denver's are Western towns: Boulder under the Flatirons, the Victorian mining streets of Georgetown and Idaho Springs, Colorado Springs and the gateway town of Estes Park.

Flagstaff has the ancient Southwest that Denver can't reach in a day: Sinagua ruins at Walnut Canyon and Wupatki, the cliff dwellings of Montezuma Castle, and the Hopi mesas. Hillside Jerome and the Grand Canyon railway from Williams add variety. Both need a car.

Denver offers families more in town. City Park has the zoo and the Museum of Nature & Science side by side, and the Children's Museum, an aquarium and an amusement park are grouped along the South Platte near downtown.

Flagstaff's attractions are fewer but suit curious children: telescope evenings at the observatory, dinosaurs at the Museum of Northern Arizona, rope courses in the pines and winter snow play. The town sits higher than Denver, so small children may feel the altitude more, and outings involve longer drives.

Denver is the easier city to manage without a car, at least around the centre. A commuter train runs from the airport to Union Station, a free shuttle bus runs the length of the downtown pedestrian mall, and light rail reaches the suburbs. LoDo and the Civic Center museums are all within walking distance of each other.

Flagstaff's downtown and Southside are pleasant to walk, and the town's trail network makes cycling practical. Beyond that, the motels along old Route 66 are spread out and the local buses mostly serve the university and main roads. In both places the mountains and day trips need a hire car. Flagstaff's mountain roads can be icy in winter, and Denver's main highway into the mountains is known for heavy weekend traffic.

Denver has more choice. There are the mall and boutique blocks of Cherry Creek, vintage and record shops on South Broadway, big outdoor gear flagships, and Western wear from boots to hats.

Flagstaff is small-scale, but it has one thing worth buying: Native American craft. Navajo rugs, Hopi kachina carvings and silver and turquoise jewellery are sold through downtown galleries, the museum shop and trading posts outside town.

Neither is cheap, but Flagstaff costs somewhat less. Chain motels along old Route 66 keep a basic stay affordable, though prices rise on summer weekends when the town fills with Grand Canyon visitors, and park entry fees add to the bill.

Denver's downtown hotels are expensive during conventions and ski season. Staying near the light rail and eating at taquerias softens the cost. Both need a hire car and both add tips to every meal.

This is where the two differ most. Denver has Red Rocks, a concert stage between two huge sandstone monoliths, plus a downtown arts centre covering several blocks with theatre, touring musicals, the Colorado Symphony, opera and ballet. Five Points adds its jazz heritage.

Flagstaff's calendar is pleasant but small: the symphony and university concerts on campus, touring folk and indie acts at the restored Orpheum, and outdoor summer concerts in the pines.

Neither has a bathing tradition, but Denver is a little better placed. It has hotel and day spas in town, and Idaho Springs, under an hour away, has historic mineral pools and steam caves.

Flagstaff has no hot springs and only a few spas, so people who want treatments drive down to Sedona's resorts. Its own calm comes from cool evenings, pine air and bright stars. Note that the altitude can disturb sleep for the first night or two.