Chiang Mai or Krabi?

Only one of these is a beach destination. Chiang Mai sits in a mountain valley a long way from the coast, so swimming means the reservoir under Doi Suthep, a quarry lake or a hotel pool.

Krabi is the reverse. Railay West and Phra Nang, framed by limestone cliffs, are a short longtail ride from Ao Nang, Klong Muang is quieter, and boats run out to Poda and the Hong islands. The dry months bring calm, clear water, while the monsoon makes the sea rough. Many travellers pair the two, with the north first and the Andaman coast after.

Chiang Mai is the better place to eat, because its northern cooking is a reason to come in its own right: khao soi, herby sai ua sausage, nam prik noom and sticky rice from Warorot market and the stalls at Chang Phueak Gate. Coffee grows in the surrounding hills, and the city's cafés are a real draw.

Krabi's southern food is hotter and shaped by its Muslim communities, with yellow fish curries, khao mok gai and roti. It is at its best at Krabi Town's evening market and in the grilled seafood. Ao Nang's restaurants lean towards pizza and milder curries for visitors, so eating well there takes more effort.

Chiang Mai has far more to see. Inside the moat, Wat Chedi Luang's ruined chedi, the wooden Lanna halls of Wat Phra Singh and the silver Wat Sri Suphan fill two or three days of slow walking, and Doi Suthep looks down on the valley from its mountain.

In Krabi, sightseeing fits into a morning. The main sight is the long stair climb at the Tiger Cave Temple, and beyond that there are a few Chinese shophouses along Krabi Town's riverfront. Museums are thin in both, but only Chiang Mai has a historic townscape worth exploring.

Neither place is for dancing until dawn, but Chiang Mai has more going on. Nimmanhaemin has cocktail and craft beer bars full of students from the nearby university, the lanes around Tha Phae Gate have backpacker bars and rooftops, and Loi Kroh Road is the brasher strip.

Krabi's evenings are mostly a beach drink. You get a short run of bars on Ao Nang's beach road, and hammocks, reggae and fire-spinning at Railay. Both are mostly quiet by midnight, and in Krabi anyone wanting a real party night takes the ferry to Phi Phi.

Krabi's scenery is the more striking. Sheer limestone towers rise from the sea and the jungle, Railay and Tonsai are famous for sport climbing, and you can kayak through the mangroves of Ao Thalane, visit Phang Nga Bay by boat or snorkel off the outer islands.

Chiang Mai's outdoors means mountain forest rather than coast. Trails and waterfalls in Doi Suthep-Pui start at the edge of town, Doi Inthanon's cloud forest is about an hour and a half away, and the Mae Taeng valley adds rafting and treks to hill villages. Haze from February to April can spoil the views and the hiking.

Chiang Mai has the better day trips if you like old towns. Lamphun's gilded chedi is half an hour south, Lampang has horse-drawn carriages and teak mansions, and the craft villages of Bo Sang and San Kamphaeng make easy half days. Chiang Rai and Pai are better done as overnight stays.

From Krabi, nearly every outing goes by boat and is about the scenery. The most rewarding places to visit are Koh Lanta's stilted Old Town and the fishing villages of Koh Yao Noi, while Phuket's Old Town makes a long day. There are no major heritage sites within easy reach.

Both welcome children warmly, but the days look very different. Chiang Mai has the attractions: elephant sanctuaries, the zoo on Doi Suthep, the Night Safari, ziplines and quarry swimming parks. Getting around with small children is harder, though, with broken pavements, heavy traffic around the moat and poor air in the burning season.

Krabi has nothing built for children, so family days revolve around the shallow, warm water at Klong Muang and Phra Nang, resort pools and kids' clubs. Open longtail boats and strong sun need planning with toddlers.

Neither has a metro, but Chiang Mai is a little easier. The old city inside the moat is walkable, red songthaews are flagged down in the street, and ride-hailing makes Nimmanhaemin or the airport a quick trip. For the hills you need a scooter or a hired driver.

Krabi is spread out along the coast, with white songthaews linking Ao Nang, the northern beaches and Krabi Town. Railay has no road, so every trip there depends on a longtail, and those stop running in heavy seas.

Chiang Mai is where you fill a bag. The Sunday market down Ratchadamnoen takes over the old city with stall after stall of woven cloth, woodcarving and embroidery from the hill villages, and the Night Bazaar is there every evening when the weekend markets are not. Celadon pottery and lacquerware are local crafts with long histories, and Nimmanhaemin's small studios add modern design.

Krabi has little to buy beyond what you need on the beach. Ao Nang's main road sells swimwear, souvenirs and tailoring, Krabi Town's weekend market feels more local, and the malls cover only the basics. Neither city suits anyone shopping for labels.

Both are good value, but Chiang Mai stretches a budget further. Teak guesthouses are cheap, street food costs very little, temples are nearly free and a daily massage is affordable. The extras that add up are sanctuary visits, treks and cooking classes.

In Krabi, the cost depends on where you stay. Krabi Town is very cheap, Ao Nang costs more and Railay the most, since everything arrives there by boat. Island tours, longtail fares and park entry fees for foreigners mount up over a beach stay.

For an evening of live music, Chiang Mai gives you far more choice. Jazz and blues jam sessions near the old city's north gate run every night, bands play in Nimmanhaemin, khantoke dinners pair a northern meal with Lanna dance, and Yi Peng fills the streets with processions. There is still no theatre or concert season.

Krabi's evening entertainment is fire-spinning on the sand, cover bands and Muay Thai bouts staged for visitors near Ao Nang.

Chiang Mai goes deeper. It is the best-known place in Thailand to learn Thai massage, Wat Umong and Wat Suan Dok run meditation retreats and talks with monks, and the San Kamphaeng hot springs are under an hour away. Its quiet, green old-city lanes suit a long stay.

Krabi's rest comes from the sea. Spas at the resorts along Klong Muang, Tubkaek and Railay have open-air pavilions facing the water, and the Hot Springs Waterfall at Khlong Thom is a pleasant outing. Ao Nang's busy main road is the one thing that spoils the calm.