AlUla or Sharm el-Sheikh?

There is no real contest. AlUla is a desert valley far from any coast, and swimming means the pool at your resort or camp.

Sharm el-Sheikh is built around the Red Sea. You get sandy Naama Bay, reef beaches along Sharks Bay, Ras Um Sid and Nabq, and coral within a few strokes of the jetties. Expect hotel-owned stretches of sand and wear reef shoes.

Neither is a place to travel for food, but the meals differ. AlUla eats at its resorts and on the Old Town terraces, with oasis dates, citrus and cardamom coffee as the local touch. In Sharm el-Sheikh the hotel buffet sets the tone, and the Old Market grills fish and serves koshari and taameya late into the night.

AlUla has some of the most striking ancient sites in Arabia. Hegra's monumental Nabataean tombs, the older kingdoms at Dadan, the inscribed canyon of Jabal Ikmah and the abandoned mud-brick Old Town fill several full days, though mostly on guided visits rather than in museums.

Sharm el-Sheikh is a modern resort town. Its sights come down to the Al Sahaba Mosque and the painted Coptic cathedral, and anything older means a long trip out.

AlUla has no bars or clubs. A night out is dinner, a stroll through the lit Old Town lanes and stargazing in the desert.

Sharm el-Sheikh at least gives you somewhere to go: Naama Bay's promenade of bars, shisha lounges and a few late clubs, plus DJ nights at beach bars. It is aimed at tourists and fades outside the peak months, but it is enough for a few nights of dancing.

Both are outstanding, and Sharm el-Sheikh edges ahead thanks to the reefs. Ras Mohammed's coral walls, the Thistlegorm wreck and the Tiran Strait put it among the world's great dive destinations, with Sinai's granite mountains and Bedouin camps on land as well.

AlUla's appeal is above ground: sandstone formations like Elephant Rock, palm groves, the lava plateau of Harrat Uwayrid and the Sharaan reserve. Canyon hikes, via ferrata, balloon flights and very dark skies make it the better choice if you would rather walk than dive.

Neither has a lot to offer beyond its own area, but Sharm el-Sheikh has the stronger pair of outings. Dahab is an easy hour up the coast, and St Catherine's Monastery with a sunrise climb of Mount Sinai makes a memorable long day.

From AlUla the options are the ancient oasis towns of Tayma and Khaybar. Each is around two hours across open desert, and they are rewarding mainly if you want even more archaeology.

Sharm el-Sheikh is far easier with children. Resorts come with kids' clubs, family pools and slides, and calm shallow lagoons are ideal for a first go at snorkelling.

AlUla suits older, outdoorsy children who will enjoy camel rides, ziplines and clambering among the rocks. There is nothing built for little ones, though, and days involve long drives and walking in the sun.

Both are spread out and neither works on foot. Sharm el-Sheikh is a little easier, with taxis, hotel shuttles, minibuses along the coast road and a walkable Naama Bay, and many guests barely leave the resort. In AlUla the sites lie 20km or more apart along the valley, reached by ticketed shuttle buses or a hire car or driver, so each day needs planning.

Sharm el-Sheikh has more to browse. The Old Market and the Naama Bay promenade sell spices, perfume oils, alabaster and galabiyas, with haggling expected, and there are a few malls for beachwear.

AlUla's shopping is a short run of Old Town craft shops selling weaving, pottery and local perfume. Dates from the oasis are the best thing to bring home.

This is one of the sharpest differences between the two. Sharm el-Sheikh's all-inclusive resorts are cheap by European standards, and the best value comes from staying in and going out little, though diving and excursions add up.

AlUla is expensive almost by design. Accommodation is dominated by luxury resorts and tented camps, the main sites are reached on paid guided tours, and you will need a car or driver.

AlUla has the better reason to plan around a performance. In the winter season the mirror-clad Maraya hall in its desert canyon hosts international singers and orchestras, alongside traditional dance among the rocks, though little happens the rest of the year. Sharm el-Sheikh offers hotel dinner shows with belly dancers and tanoura whirling, and nothing beyond that.

Both rely on resort spas rather than any local bathing tradition, so the difference is in mood. Sharm el-Sheikh's hotels often include hammam-style baths and inexpensive massage, and the sea and winter sun do the rest. AlUla offers sunrise yoga, pools among the rocks and silent desert evenings by a fire.