Nuevo Vallarta

The beach is the reason Nuevo Vallarta exists. A long, wide strand of soft golden sand runs for kilometres along the northern curve of Banderas Bay, lined almost entirely by resorts, and the bay keeps the water warm all year, from about 24°C in late winter to 29°C or more in late summer. The slope is gentle and the sea is usually calm enough for children, though waves and currents pick up on some days and the flags are worth heeding.

The water is not Caribbean-clear, and after summer storms the river mouth at the southern end can turn it murky. For variety, the town of Bucerias is a short drive north, and the sheltered coves of Punta Mita and the surf beach at Sayulita are within about an hour. Winter, from December to April, brings the clearest skies and calmest seas.

Most visitors here eat inside all-inclusive resorts, and the town itself has little more than a few restaurant plazas and marina-side terraces. The local cooking worth seeking out is the Nayarit and Jalisco coastal style: pescado zarandeado, a whole butterflied fish grilled over wood, sharp aguachile, fish tacos, camarones al coco, and ceviche served in a halved coconut, washed down with raicilla, the region's agave spirit.

For that you mostly have to leave the resort strip, to the beachfront seafood shacks and taco stands of Bucerias or the far deeper restaurant scene of Puerto Vallarta, both an easy taxi ride away. Travellers who care about eating will want to plan those evenings out rather than rely on the hotel.

Nuevo Vallarta is a planned resort development of hotels, condominiums, golf courses and a marina, and it has no historic centre, museums or landmarks of its own. The nearest real town fabric is in Bucerias and Puerto Vallarta, with its cobbled old streets, waterfront malecon and crowned parish church, and those are outings rather than part of daily life here.

Evenings in Nuevo Vallarta mostly happen inside the resorts: lobby bars, poolside entertainment and a quiet drink at the marina, with the strip largely asleep by midnight. Those wanting a proper night out take a taxi south to Puerto Vallarta, where the malecon clubs and the bars of the Zona Romantica, including one of Mexico's best-known gay scenes, run late. That makes a big night possible, but it is always a trip, not something on the doorstep.

Banderas Bay is the setting, and its wildlife is the main draw. From December to March humpback whales come into the bay to calve, and boat trips leave from the marina and from Punta Mita to watch them breach. The Marietas Islands, a protected national park at the mouth of the bay, offer snorkelling among seabirds and rocky arches, and sea turtles nest on the local beaches through summer and autumn, with hatchling releases common at the resorts.

Behind the coast, the mangrove estuary of the Ameca river draws herons and crocodiles, and the forested foothills of the Sierra Madre rise inland with jungle walks, river canyons and zip-lines. Punta Mita and Sayulita are the surf breaks, sportfishing boats go out year round, and there are golf courses in the enclave itself. Summer brings heavy afternoon storms and strong humidity.

The best outing is Puerto Vallarta, about half an hour south, with its old town of cobbled streets, the malecon lined with sculpture and the landmark church. Heading north, the coast is a string of small towns that each make a pleasant day: Bucerias with its art galleries and seafront, Sayulita with its surf and bohemian plaza, quieter San Pancho, and the upmarket point at Punta Mita.

Inland, San Sebastian del Oeste is an old silver-mining village in pine-covered mountains, about two hours away on a winding road. The boat-only village of Yelapa, on the southern shore of the bay, is a good escape too. There is no major archaeological or colonial heritage within easy reach, so this suits travellers happy with towns and coast.

This is a straightforward place for a family vacation. The resorts are built for it, with shallow pools, water slides, kids' clubs and food on hand all day, and the gently shelving beach is easy for younger children on calm days. The enclave is quiet, gated in places and feels safe.

The outings children remember are whale watching in winter, releasing turtle hatchlings at dusk in season, a boat trip to the Marietas Islands for older children who can snorkel, and the local water parks and dolphin centre. There is little in the way of zoos, science museums or theme parks, and the humid heat of summer and autumn limits time outdoors to mornings and evenings.

Nuevo Vallarta is spread along a long boulevard of resorts, golf courses and gated condominiums, and apart from walking the beach there is little within easy walking distance. Local buses run along the main highway to Puerto Vallarta and Bucerias and are cheap and frequent, but reaching them from the beachfront can mean a long, hot walk. In practice most visitors use taxis, resort shuttles or organised tours, and a hire car helps for exploring the northern coast. The airport is close, about twenty minutes away.

Shopping in Nuevo Vallarta itself is limited to resort boutiques, a modest mall and small plazas selling swimwear, sun cream and souvenirs. The craft worth buying is Huichol beadwork and yarn painting, made by the indigenous Wixarika people of the region, along with silver and Talavera pottery. For those, and for art galleries and markets, visitors go to Bucerias or to Puerto Vallarta's old town and river market.

Nuevo Vallarta is one of Mexico's more expensive places to stay. Accommodation is almost entirely resorts and vacation condominiums aimed at North American visitors, and restaurants, tours and drinks within the enclave are priced to match. All-inclusive packages make costs predictable. Stepping outside helps a great deal: local buses and taxis are inexpensive, and tacos and seafood in Bucerias or Puerto Vallarta's neighbourhoods cost far less than anything inside the resorts.

Performance here is mostly resort entertainment: nightly shows by the pool, mariachi bands and folkloric dance at Mexican-themed dinners. One of the large resort complexes stages a permanent acrobatic dinner theatre production that draws visitors from across the bay. For anything more, Puerto Vallarta has a handful of cabaret and drag stages and bars with live music, but there is no opera, orchestra or theatre scene to speak of.

Slowing down is what most people come to Nuevo Vallarta to do, and the place is built for it: long days by the pool, an unhurried pace and very little to rush off and see. The larger resorts have extensive spas with hydrotherapy circuits and treatment rooms, and several offer the temazcal, the traditional Mesoamerican sweat lodge with herbs and a guided ceremony, which is the one genuinely local bathing tradition. Yoga on the beach and massages under palapas are easy to find. Beyond the hotels, though, there is no public bathing culture, and the spa experience depends almost entirely on where you stay.